Here at Vico Skin, we’re SPF fanatics and for a good reason. SPF stands for ‘Sun Protection Factor, which literally means protection from the sun. Although it’s now seen as trendy to be overly tanned, there are a few things to consider when being out in the sun and we want to make you aware of them, this way you can get all the vitamin D that you need but subsequently avoid any harmful, long-term damage.
As humans, we naturally gravitate towards the sun because without sun there is no life. Sunlight is essential for human health and wellbeing as it provides Vitamin D, boosts our serotonin levels, and helps regulate our sleep.
Think back to all those years of grudgingly having to wait for your parents to cake you in sunscreen before a long-awaited day out at the beach. Our parents were ahead of the game. SPF should be a vital part of your skincare routine all year round, and this is why…
The sun emits Ultra-Violet rays which are broken down into three categories:
● UVA,
● UVB, and
● UVC.
All of these can cause damage when exposed to them without any protection which is what makes sunscreen so important.
UVA rays contribute towards skin aging, wrinkling and some forms of Cancer. They penetrate the dermis much deeper than UVB rays, causing long term DNA damage which eventually affects the skin’s collagen and elastin levels. These rays are also responsible for tanning our skin a darker colour, so they’re prevalent in tanning beds.
UVB rays cause sunburns and play a major role in the development of skin cancer. They do this by causing immediate damage to skin cells which then leads to inflammation, causing your skin to redden in colour. They are much shorter in length than UVA rays and reach the epidermis, which is the top layer of skin, but they are the main cause of skin damage and cancer.
UVC rays are the strongest and most aggressive type of rays, however their wavelength is so short that they don’t reach the earth surface and therefore they pose no threat to humans.
History of Tanning
Tanned skin has experienced a dramatic shift in its perception in society, prior to the 1920s, pallor; the term for an unhealthy pale appearance, was popularised particularly amongst the wealthy as it signified a higher class due to a lifetime of indoor activities having been able to avoid manual labour, whilst tanned complexions were seen as coming from much poorer backgrounds that resulted from working in fields and being outside for large portions of the day. Though this ideology has somewhat changed, there are still parts of the world that have outwardly withheld the belief that lighter skin tones equate to a higher class.
This ideology of started to change in the early 1923, with some arguing that the tipping point for this was when Coco Chanel was photographed stepping off a yacht “Flying Cloud” with an olive complexion after getting an accidental tan from the Cannes sun in which she had been sailing with Duke of Westminster around the Mediterranean on a yacht that summer. With her favorite accessories, perls, that enhanced the tan. Voila! A new skincare trend was born.
This signified a new trend; pallor was out, and bronzed skin was in. With leisure culture becoming more prevalent, tanned skin became a mark of vacations and the ability to afford to travel, however it wasn't until the 1940s that sunscreen was first invented and so this wasn’t achieved without damage. Today tanning has continued to be a popular concept which has been endorsed by the younger generations as sun beds and artificial tanning have become much more popular in recent years, there has been multiple studies which suggest that having a tan makes people feel psychologically better about themselves.
Fun fact: In 1963, during the filming of Cleopatra, Max Factor created what could be considered as the first bronzer made with a base of sugar and honey to use on Elizabeth Taylor, to make her a more convincing representative of the Queen of the Nile.
Types of SPF:
With this information, it can be difficult to choose the right SPF , with the growing pressure of consumerism flaunted on platforms such as TikTok and Instagram, exposing us to a constant stream of new and fresh products, it’s important to understand that not every product is going to be suited to your skin and picking the wrong product could result in unwanted problems. There are different types of sunscreen in the market. You may have heard of variations such as ‘mineral sunscreen,’ or ‘chemical sunscreen’ and so on, and whilst they all work to protect our skin from the sun, they work slightly differently.
Sunscreen works differently depending on what category it falls into. Chemical sunscreens are absorbed into your skin and work by converting UV rays into heat, causing your skin to heat up. For a long time, chemical sunscreens have been most popular and readily available on the market due to their lightweight and blendable formulas. However, people who are affected with Pigmentation, Melasma and Rosacea often avoid heat on their skin as this can potentially trigger reactions or flare ups, and with chemical sunscreens converting UV rays into heat, this could exacerbate heat-sensitive such as the above.
Mineral sunscreens work by using minerals such as Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide that sit at the skin's surface and act like a barrier to reflect UV rays away back into the atmosphere. Mineral sunscreens have been around since the 1950s however they’re only just starting to become more popular today. With the average Gen-Z being more health conscious and questioning what chemicals are in our cosmetics, we’re seeing a shift in the types of sunscreen people are reaching for on the shelves but what’s most important is that you’re using some type of sunscreen as protection!
In 2008 Danovaro and colleagues published a study linking chemical sunscreens to potential coral bleaching in areas of high human use, these two compounds were then labelled as Oxybenzone and Octinoxate and were described as having a negative impact on underwater ecosystems. Following this, in 2018 Hawaii was the first country to place a ban on the sale of sunscreens with these compounds which are found in most brands over the globe. Today, some experts believe that there are four main ingredients that can lead to hormone disruptions, these are,
● Oxybenzone
● Octinoxate
● Homosalate, and
● Parabens
Oxybenzone, Octinoxate and Homosalate have been said to mimic and produce estrogen-like activity in the body, which Parabens are endocrine disrupting synthetics found in lots of cosmetics.
Changes in RegulationsBenzophenone-5 (BP-5) is a synthetic UV filter which is used in sunscreen to help protect against UVA and UVB rays. Currently in the UK, the legal use of Benzophenone-5 (BP-5) is allowed under EU law, however regulations are reviewed, and changes are made when new information comes to light. Previously, the EU allowed for up to a larger percentage of BP-5 to be used in cosmetic products, however due to the scarcity of the information regarding BP-5, concerns of the toxicological data of its close analogue BP-4 was reviewed and a regulation of a maximum concentration of 5% may be used in UV protection cosmetics moving forward from April 2025. Benzophenone-5 (BP-5) has been classed as potentially dangerous when pulling from information of a chemical very similar (Benzophenone-4 (BP-4).
What is a Non-Toxic SPF?
Non-Toxic is a term regularly used in the beauty industry and often related to products that are formulated with ingredients that pose no harm to human health. Regarding SPF, Mineral sunscreen is normally referred to as a non-toxic option through its use of minerals such as Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide and as mentioned earlier in this blog, these minerals are not absorbed by the skin, but rather sit on the surface, allowing for no harsh unwanted chemicals to be absorbed into the body. It means that neither UV filters nor any secondary ingredients, such as stabilisers, preservatives, or fragrances can induce any hazards including skin irritation and sensitisation, allergic reactions, endocrine disruptions, genotoxicity, and more.
To go that extra bit further when looking for a non-toxic sunscreen, Vico Skin always suggests thoroughly checking the ingredients and avoiding products that have any unnecessary ingredients such oils, parabens, fragrances etc.
How do the numbers work?
The numbers on SPF bottles are referred to as factors, some popular varieties are factor 10, 30, 50 and 50+.
● SPF 15: Blocks approximately 93% of UVB rays,
● SPF 30: Blocks approximately 97% of UVB rays and
● SPF 50: Blocks approximately 98% of UVB rays.
● SPF 50+: Blocks approximately 98.3% of UVB rays.
The number is established through a series of lab tests in which participants are exposed to simulated light intended to mimic the strength of the midday sun, when the UV level is the most powerful. The test starts by identifying the participants' minimal erythema dose (minimal amount of UV needed to cause onset of sunburn) and then this is repeated with sunscreen protection. Then these two figures are compared to result in the value of this ratio.
However it doesn’t always mean that the higher the number = more protection. SPF numbers protect against the strength of UV radiation and don’t directly correlate to longer exposure time. This is because the strength of UV varies throughout the day with 12pm being the most powerful, although this differs in different countries. You can get roughly the same amount of UV exposure between 9am and 10am compared to 15 minutes of exposure at 12pm. It’s important to regularly reapply sunscreen and leave it to dry before you enter any pools or body of water.
Another code to look out when you are searching for a spf is PA that is standing next to the spf number referees to the certification that products protects against UVA rays.
What is a UV index?
A UV index, or Ultra-Violet Index is a universal standard measure of the total amount of UV radiation at any given point in time relating to a particular place. We often refer to high degree heat as ‘tanning weather’ without realising that a high temperature doesn't always correlate to how strong the sun is.
A UV index is often found on weather apps such as Apple Weather/Google Weather and will tell you how strong the UV radiation from the sun is going to be throughout the day, with 12pm – 3pm normally being the strongest. Here is an example of a UV index scale.
As you can see the higher the UV number, the higher the level of UV radiation. The likelihood of burning is much lower when the UV index is at a low number such as 1 or 2. As the sun gets stronger throughout the day, you will see the index go up which means the likelihood of getting sunburnt is much higher.
Reflective surfaces can also cause sun damage and sunburn, it’s not always down to how strong the sun’s UV is. Fresh snow, mirrors, sand, water, and aluminium foil all reflect a large amount of sunlight, meaning you also need to be aware of these surfaces when protecting yourself from the sun.
Misconceptions
There are some common misconceptions regarding the use of SPF. Traditionally sunscreen has been encouraged and applied during the warmer months of the year, but research proves that harmful UV rays are present even when it’s cloudy. The sun is present all year round and so damage can also be done, all year round. UV rays can penetrate through clouds and cause damage even in the winter, making it crucial to start considering SPF as part of your daily routine, regardless of the weather.
High altitudes is where people are prone to sunburn, i.e. entering the mountains for hobbies such as hiking or in the winter months for skiing.
Another common misconception is that darker skin tones are exempt from needing sunscreen – this is untrue. Darker skin tones naturally contain more melanin, allowing darker complexions to spend longer in the sun before burning, this is due to having the ability to absorb a higher number of UV rays than that of fairer skin tones. Still, this doesn’t mean darker tones are protected from DNA damage and sun burn, it just means that these skin tones can go longer without showing signs of sunburn. In conclusion... Vico Skin strongly advises everyone to wear sunscreen!
Further Protection
If you’re looking to go that extra mile, wearing SPF is a great start, but there are certain fruits to stock up on during the warmer months that can offer extended protection in their own unique ways. Fruits such as Watermelon, Tomatoes, Lemons, Limes, and Berries don’t contain any Sun Factor Protection, but they contain compounds such as Vitamin C and Lycopene that can help neutralize free radicals and reduce the harmful effects of sun damage on our skin, offering healing properties to keep our skin healthy and glowing. There are also certain supplements that can offer healing properties such as Gaba, which are known for helping the quality of our skin, improving moisture, and reducing wrinkles which can work well alongside sunscreen. Astaxanthin, is also a fantastic supplement and can complement sun protection from the inside by reducing UV induced damage and improving skin cell repair.
It’s important to note that none are substitutes for sunscreen, but they can be consumed alongside wearing SPF to help protect you further.
Sun Protection Clothing
UPF, known as Ultra-Violet Protection Factor, is a system that rates how effectively fabric protects your skin from both types of UV rays. It indicates how much of the UV rays are absorbed by the fabric. For example, UPF 50 will protect against 98% of the sun’s UV rays, this is equivalent to only 1/50 of the sun's UV rays reaching your skin. Generally, with UPF, the higher the number means the higher the protection.
Hats are a great option when considering sun protection, they work by blocking direct sunlight from reaching your face, neck, and ears, which happen to be the most prone to burns and sun damage when leaving exposed without protection. Consider using a hat with a wide brim and a neck flap for extra protection. UV Visors are another way to further protect yourself from the sun. Again, none of these are substitutes for sunscreen but should be used alongside to maximise protection and keep your skin youthful and glowing for longer.
As humans, we naturally gravitate towards the sun because without sun there is no life. Sunlight is essential for human health and wellbeing as it provides Vitamin D, boosts our serotonin levels, helps regulate our sleep and sometimes even reduces the risk of certain diseases. Vico Skin suggest to safely utilise the sun for its great qualities on our system and do so with lots of protection.